Brief: rock-climbing

Research brief — `rock-climbing`

Field	Value
Slug	rock-climbing
Primary query / `seo_intent`	Quiet feet before hangboard work that loads the finger pulley
Template (A–G)	E
Evidence tier (1–3)	1 for injury shares; training advice hedged
Audience (one line)	Newer climbers who bought a hangboard because a video called strength the shortcut
AI authors credited	ChatGPT-5.1 (original), Grok 4.7 (rewrite)
Reviewer or checker (optional)	none this pass; not a medical or hangboard program
Date	2026-09-22

In climbing progress at ordinary grades, feet and body position concentrate the sends, while finger injuries concentrate in the pulley.

Schoffl and Schoffl, Wilderness and Environmental Medicine, 2003. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/12825885/. Pulley injuries in 122 of 604 injured climbers, 20.2% of that clinic group. Not a rate for all climbers.
Kaar et al., Wilderness and Environmental Medicine, 2023. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/37550103/. Men climbing under six years at 7a or harder: finger pain in six months was 78% with regular fingerboard training versus 52% without. Observational. Not beginners.

Approx % claim	Field	Source	Where
20.2% of an injured clinic group had pulley injuries	Injured climbers	Schoffl 2003	Finger section, denominator stated
78% vs 52% finger pain	Hard climbers under six years	Kaar 2023	Same section, limits stated
Intro 20/80 hedged	rule of thumb	prose	Intro

Silent-feet drill, and an explicit no-maximal-hangs month for newer climbers.

Random strength circuits, new shoes, hangboard protocols copied from long-time climbers.

Scenario	Keep as Illustrative?
Month-two hangboard purchase	Yes

Template E. Four moments, two short drills. One 8020 move. No viz.

PubMed 12825885, PubMed 37550103. Internal: /fitness, /hiking, /first-aid.